Amritsar: A Journey Through Pain, Peace, and Punjabi Pride
Nestled in Punjab, Amritsar holds a mirror to India’s tumultuous past and its enduring hope. As a focal point of India’s struggle for independence and one of the most affected cities during the 1947 partition of British India into India and Pakistan, its streets echo with tales of both pain and perseverance. Here, history confronts you at every turn— bullet-riddled walls whisper stories of loss and resilience. Yet, just as quickly, the Golden temple glow soothes your soul with its peace, faith, and the indomitable spirit of its people. With buttery kulchas (flatbread), rural charm, and the Wagah-Attari Border’s (a symbolic Indo-Pak crossing), Amritsar is as diverse as it is captivating.
History That Lingers in the Air Amritsar’s history is inseparable from its identity (see key historic events). A visit to Jallianwala Bagh, where a peaceful protest against colonial oppression turned into a horrific massacre under British command, is a sobering experience. The bullet-riddled walls and the well—where many sought refuge but found none—serve as haunting reminders of British brutality and sacrifice of those who fought for liberation. The Partition Museum unravels the human cost of India’s 1947 division. Personal artifacts, photographs, and oral histories bring to life the trauma of those uprooted from their homes. The hasty partition of British India into India and Pakistan led to one of the largest forced migrations in human history, as millions fled across newly drawn borders amidst religious violence. This division is even more bizarre given the cultural closeness of the nations—shared language, food, and customs. Once marked by centuries of coexistence, people on either side of the border can no longer visit homes, weddings, or festivals—separated by manmade, religion-based lines that divided families and shared identities. The exhibits spark unanswerable questions: What if India had not been divided? Would a united subcontinent be a stronger, more harmonious nation today? For a lighter yet equally stirring experience, visit Wagah Border, just 30 kilometres from the city. Since 1959, this Indo-Pak crossing has hosted the nightly flag-lowering ceremony, a dazzling display of synchronized marches, high kicks, and nationalist fervour. Roaring crowds on both sides create an electrifying atmosphere, where patriotism meets spectacle. Here, you’ll feel the closeness of two nations—so culturally alike yet politically estranged—a juxtaposition that defines Amritsar itself.
Key Historic Events
Jallianwala Bagh Massacre (1919): On April 13, British troops under General Reginald Dyer opened fire on thousands of unarmed Indians protesting colonial repression. In ten minutes, nearly 1,000s were killed or wounded. This was a turning point in India’s freedom struggle, intensifying resistance to British rule.
Partition of India (1947): After World War II, a weakened Britain sought to exit India. The Muslim League, led by Jinnah, demanded a separate Muslim state, fearing marginalization in a Hindu-majority India. Mountbatten compressed a five-year transfer of power plan into just four months. Sir Cyril Radcliffe, with no prior knowledge of India, was given a month to draw new borders. Resultingly, British India was split into 2 nations on August 14–15, 1947, along religious lines—India for Hindus and Sikhs, Pakistan for Muslims.
The result was one of the largest forced migrations in history: over 14 million people displaced, up to a million killed in communal violence, villages wiped out, and countless families torn apart. Partition left a lasting legacy of trauma, displacement, and tension—particularly over Kashmir, claimed by both India and Pakistan.
Ongoing Tensions: India and Pakistan have faced repeated military standoffs, with recent years seeing flare-ups along the Line of Control in Kashmir. Civilians bear the brunt of this prolonged conflict. The scars of Partition remain visible in strained diplomatic relations, visa restrictions, and mutual mistrust—reminders of the enduring consequences of dividing a region by religion.
Peace in the Heart of the City Amritsar’s heavy history is lifted by the Golden Temple, Sikhism’s spiritual heart. Its gilded facade gleams are reflected beautifully in the Amrit Sarovar (sacred pool) surrounding it. The peaceful hum of kirtans (devotional songs) fills the air, wrapping you in a cocoon of tranquillity. The langar, or community kitchen, serves free meals to over 100,000 people daily, regardless of caste, creed, or religion. Sitting shoulder to shoulder with strangers, sharing a simple yet nourishing meal, you experience the Sikh ethos of equality and service firsthand where peace reigns supreme.
A Food Lover’s Paradise Start your culinary journey with Amritsari kulcha, a flaky bread stuffed with spiced potatoes or paneer, served with Bansa’s tangy chole (chickpea curry). Pair it with a glass of lassi from Kanha—so thick it’s practically dessert— or channa, puri, and halwa, a classic Punjabi meal. The city’s street food scene is irresistible—from sweet and tangy aam papad (mango leather) to crispy jalebis, spicy golgappas, and bheega kulcha from Basant Avenue Market. For your sweet tooth, grab some ladoos from Bansal, a local favourite.
Birra Chicken and mutton tikkas at the Chungi stall on Maqbool Road is a must for meat lovers. Seafood enthusiasts should try the melt-in-your-mouth Amritsari fried fish at Makhan Fish. Vegetarians shouldn’t miss the paneer bhurji from Tare di Hatti. Amritsar's food scene is also forward-looking—fusion restaurants like Shiso and Bagh and brunch spots like Grain by Elgin are offering a modern twist to the city’s food culture.
A Glimpse of Rural Punjab To truly experience Punjab’s roots, visit Pind Haveli—a village-style resort that recreates rural life with mud huts, colourful murals, and rustic décor Here, you can watch folk dances, try pottery, or play traditional games like gilli-danda. The food, served on leaf platters, is as authentic as it gets—slow-cooked, flavourful, and served with Punjabi warmth.
Practical Details Getting There: Sri Guru Ram Dass Jee International Airport connects Amritsar to major Indian cities. Trains and buses from Delhi and Chandigarh are also convenient options. Where to Stay:
Luxury - Ranjit’s Svaasa or Taj Swarna
Budget travellers - guesthouses near the Golden Temple
Heritage - Pind Haveli
Best Time to Visit: October to March, when the weather is pleasant. Avoid summers, as temperatures can exceed 40°C.
What to Shop:
Phulkari Embroidery: Traditional, colourful handwoven fabrics, dupattas, and
sarees.
Punjabi Jootis: Handcrafted leather footwear with intricate embroidery.
Amritsari Papad & Wadiyan: Spiced lentil-based snacks.
Handmade Sikh Artifacts: Miniature swords, karas (bracelets), and turbans.
Spices & Dry Fruits: Authentic Punjabi masalas and locally sourced nuts.
Best Markets: Hall Bazaar, Katra Jaimal Singh, Guru Bazaar
Tips:
Wear modest clothing for the Golden Temple. It is a requirement that the head is covered with a cloth or scarf.
Arrive early at the Partition Museum and Wagah Border for a crowd-free experience.
Explore Amritsar’s bustling bazaars for souvenirs outside the Golden Temple.
A City That Stays with You Amritsar offers a clear lens into India’s colonial past, partition, and the ongoing impact of borders—realities still shaping lives today. Layered with culture and resilience, few places in the world offer this much in one journey.